The Beekeeping Year

If you are interested in taking up the fascinating hobby of beekeeping you will no doubt have lots of questions and here we aim to provide useful information about exactly what is involved each month of the year.  

Keeping bees healthy and productive requires knowledge and skill. Beekeeping is made much easier by belonging to a local BBKA Association where you will be given advice, tuition and support.  Most associations also run 'Taster Days' and 'Introduction to Beekeeping' courses.

Think about what equipment you may need for the new season and check prices and lead times with suppliers.
Monitor for Varroa and treat if necessary.
Mesh cages on hives can prevent woodpecker damage.
Clear any dead bees from hive entrances to avoid blockages.
Check hives by’ hefting’ to estimate remaining stores. Fondant can be given if necessary.
Carry out any repairs needed in the apiary.
Always check hives after bad weather.
Take the opportunity to read some of the excellent beekeeping books which are available.

Although the queen is likely to be laying again now continue to leave the hive alone.
Review your records from last year and plan for the new season ahead.
On warmer days watch hives for any activity.  Early flowers will attract the bees, and it is a good sign if pollen is being taken in.
Ensure entrances are kept clear and not blocked with dead bees.
Check hives by’ hefting’ to estimate remaining stores.  Fondant can be given if necessary.
Clean, repair and build any new equipment to save time later in the year.
Continue reading and watching videos to expand your knowledge.
Local beginners’ courses will start soon. Courses for improvers and other levels are also worth considering.

Remove mouseguards when frosts have passed.
Depending on location leave inspections until April unless urgent or the weather is warmer than average. 
Keep any inspection brief.
Check Varroa levels.
Continue checking stores and if feeding is necessary a thin syrup is normally recommended.
Remove any fondant when adequate forage is available.
Find your queen excluders and ensure all kit is ready to be used. 
If a colony has died close the entrance until you are ready to deal with it. Try to understand why a colony may have failed; looks for signs.  Common causes can include: Poor/failed queens, Varroa-related issues, Starvation, Small/weak colonies

Another season is underway but the weather can still be very variable.
Always have a reason to inspect and choose a warm, sunny still day (12°C as a minimum)
You’re looking for evidence of a queen laying well; eggs, larvae and sealed worker brood in a ratio of around 1:2:4 is reassuring.
Check for signs of pests or disease.
Check stores – are there enough to last until the next inspection?
Assess the size of colony and amount of brood – is there enough space?
Are there any signs of swarm preparations?
An early season disease inspection is a good idea if the weather allows.
Feed with light syrup if necessary, especially during cold/wet periods.  Colonies can starve if spring is late.
Monitor for early signs of swarming and know the difference between a queen cup and a charged cell.  Think carefully about which swarm control method you plan to use. Keep it simple!
Mark queens now – they will be easier to find, and it is a real timesaver for the rest of the year.  Decide if any older queens may need replacing this season. What method of queen rearing might you use? How will you introduce those queens?
If a colony is becoming crowded it is often best to add supers, or use double brood boxes for stronger colonies.
Possibly downsize weaker colonies to a nuc to see if they recover or, if healthy, maybe unite to keep colony numbers manageable.

Inspect at least every seven days and every four to five days for colonies at higher risk of swarming. Look carefully for any early signs of swarming. This is when it is really handy to know the queen’s life cycle.
Check if the colony is expanding; if not, ask why? Failure to thrive in spring could mean a weak queen, or possibly nosemosis or even European foulbrood (EFB).
Monitor and check the Varroa count.
Have plenty of spare kit ready for use.
If this is your first season – ideally once you’ve done an introductory course – this is a great time to get an overwintered nuc of local bees.

Continue inspecting weekly or more frequently with higher-risk colonies.
Stay vigilant for queen cells and swarming signs. The timing of the peak swarm season varies from year to year, so be prepared to act quickly to prevent swarming and have spare kit available.
Continue to add supers as required for the nectar flow before a colony gets congested.
In some years there is a June gap in forage. Spring flowers are over and summer flowers yet to emerge. This can be made worse by poor weather.
Monitor stores of all colonies but especially of smaller nucs and splits which may not have much in reserve.
Be prepared to feed thin syrup if required but watch you don’t contaminate any stored honey with sugar syrup!
Remove any sealed spring honey in frames/supers for extraction but do leave sufficient for the bees. 

This can be a good month to remove honey. A colony needs about 20kg of stores for the winter, so avoid taking off too much.
Continue weekly inspections. Swarming is mainly over, but an unexpected late round of swarms in some seasons can catch you out.
Start thinking about which colonies may need uniting to improve chances of overwintering. Your records should help you to decide which colonies may struggle through winter.
A full disease inspection is often useful this month.
Keep an eye out for social wasps becoming a threat.
This is a good time to monitor Varroa drop and plan if an autumn treatment is required

Getting a colony through winter requires a strong, young queen, a large number of bees, and plenty of stores.
Winter preparation starts now:  consider uniting week or queenless colonies, check for signs of disease or pests and ensure adequate stores.
Continue with inspections while the weather holds.
Consider reducing entrances if robbing is an issue.
Time to collect the late summer honey crop.  Process safely in hygienic conditions following The Honey Regulations 2015.
Start thinking about whether colonies need feeding:  thick sugar syrup in late summer and early autumn and fondant from October.
Monitor for Varroa and treat as required.

This is the month to take a well-earned break.
Harvest any remaining honey but leave enough for the bees.
Reduce inspection frequency but do check for signs of pests and disease.
Check that colonies are queenright and untie any that are too weak to overwinter.
Check stores and consider feeding as necessary.
Strap and weigh down hives to protect from storms.

Feeding syrup stops early in the month but if stores are low fondant can be used.
Hefting allowing you to gauge remaining stores.
Fit mouseguards and turn entrance blocks upside down.
If green woodpeckers are a problem, consider adding a ‘wire cage’ around hives to keep them out.
It is best not to inspect now but observe externally instead.
Clean equipment not in use ready for next season.
Consider adding insulation at the top of the hive.
Check hives after flooding, high winds, severe frost and storms.

A monthly check that all looks okay, heft to check stores and add fondant if required.
Watch for blocked entrances.
Monitor for Varroa so you know the levels early.
Start planning for next year.
Clean and repair equipment ready for next season.
Read the books you haven’t had time to open during the season.

Monitor daily Varroa count and apply a licenced treatment as required.
Continue external checks especially after bad weather.
Heft to check stores and add fondant if required.
Clean equipment ready for next year.
Review the season’s successes and failures and consider next year’s plan.